how to clean carburetor on johnson outboard This is a topic that many people are looking for. g4site.com is a channel providing useful information about learning, life, digital marketing and online courses …. it will help you have an overview and solid multi-faceted knowledge . Today, g4site.com would like to introduce to you Johnson / Evinrude carburettor service. Following along are instructions in the video below:
There dentist you hear todays video is about servicing. The car burner from a a johnson. 30 horsepower.
Outboard and is proudly sponsored by marine engine comm music. We quickly remove this car. But then well just take it over to the beach.
Ive already removed the prime solenoid from this outboard. So we dont have that to worry about but weve got our throttle linkage here well just pop that off leave that up here now this is mounted with two bolts. But this one in here looks quite hard to get to with the starter motor in place.
So i think im actually gonna take the starter motor out in order to get the carburetor off. Well start with this nut here. Which is a half inch nut and then looks like theres a smaller bolt that goes through here.
But this is also where they gear selector linkage. Hes pivoted from so we might undo this as well bolt on the side. Was 7 16.
Do you select two brackets 5 16. I want to take this other 5 16 bolt out. But i cant get to it because of this little stop it looks like an adjustable stopper year.
So well unbolt this here from the exhaust cover looks like down. Here. This is actually a part of the engine block and this is the start of our mount so.
Im going to take this bolt out to start a motor mount state wobble. Now so id say. This is the last one this is an 11 millimeter spanner side say its a 16 spot looks like one of those rare times the ratchet strainer actually kicks in and i can use it alright take this main positive lead from the solenoid.
So ive just put everything back loosely just to save me remembering where it goes and save me from losing anything. This is now me good access to the nut on this side. This one.
I just got to pull the throttle out of the way. I can get to that easily as well and these both half inch nuts. This is hitting the carburetor here.
So ill just back the other one pull it forward keep going so same thing either side. Both the nuts have bottomed out now pull the karbala forward go a bit further just put these nuts back on the studs. Then well take this fuel line off from the bottom.
And get over to the bench. So a little bit harder to get off than order hope. But not too bad.
This is the kid i have to service this carburetor. Theres the part number there ill put a link in the description to the marine engine comm website. If you want to buy one.
What im going to do first actually just open it up see whats in the kit. So we know what we need to keep and what were going to be replacing. Weve got three gaskets here and you float in here.
Weve got a new needle and seat to go with the float then in here. We just got an assortment of sort of seals pins caps. All that kind of stuff so well see how we go ill start by just pulling this apart and pull the victim apart strain and well give the jets and everything a bit of a clean seal conditions in sort of play it by ear.
Really to start by just taking this top cover off the basic principles are very similar with all carpenters. But they do have their own little you know ways of achieving certain things. And ive got to confess.
Im not super from here with evinrude cardinalis. But how hard can it be it comes a bit oily on the top here. We got the fuel in from the primer and on this side.
Weve got a little air orifice or clean out. While were here. Ill do all the cleaning at once or just disassembler to start with on the top heres the gasket to seal the top plate once again pretty oily underneath.
So itll be good to give it a clean up this gaskets a good match for it so we can safely sort of get rid of that on this side here we have an idle mixture screw. Normally what you do is wind them in count. How many turns in it is and that way you know how many turns out it has to come back out when you put it back in in this case.
It looks really compressed so i doubt its gonna go in very far. Which makes me think. Its probably not where it should be anyway.
So i wandered in well see how many turns. It is take it out. But i dont think thats right so its really only one of the bit turns out so id say its not out far enough.
But then chewed up properly once its all back together and running so mixture screw and the spring. Now well take the float bottle once you start taking screws out from multiple locations. Its good just to compare them see whether you can get them confused in this case.
Theyre a different diameter. So you cant get them in the wrong. Place really all youre looking for is screws that have the same diameter same thread pitch.
But a different length thats where you can get into trouble float bowl looks nice and clean thats good theres a drain plug in the bottom here. Ill take the drain plug out because its got a little fiber washer on it that will replace with one from the kit inside here behind so its actually in this section here. But you access it through the drain plug is the main jet for this carburetor.
So well take that up next the trick. Were getting these jets out is to find a screw driver that fits in but make sure it only just fits that way youve got as much blade as possible in the jet itself. Which gives you the least chance of damaging it so heres the jet out now it looks reasonably clear so around the float bowl.
Weve got another gasket so well take that off and pretty confident got the right kit. Now cuz this matches perfectly so well put that aside to get the float bowl itself off we need to take this pin out here so we can just pull that out and thats to pin the float pivots on and there you can see hanging off it heres the needle and this did the seat the idea with this little needle and seat is its a valve to block the fuel off as this float rises up as the fuel pump puts fuel into the bowl. Here.
Then the needle pushes up into the seat and blocks the fuel off as the fuel gets used up it drops.
And this little valve opens more fuel can coming the little needle and seat kit has the needle here the little clip that holds it on and the ceiling washer to go around the seat. The pivot pin for the float. Actually was included in the main kit here when the bowl goes on is the top section here that seals around here and theres another seal.
There well be replacing so well take that off and replace that as well taking out the seat for the float bowl. Its a good opportunity to actually show what i was talking up before. Which is its got a slot in it obviously your screwdriver needs to fit in it in this case.
Here. Though you can see the screwdriver. Ive got at the moment slightly smaller than the slot.
So what im going to do is farm on a bit larger to make sure we dont damage the soft metal of this seat yes in this case were replacing it but its good practice you can see here this screwdrivers pretty much the same width as a seat. So ill use this one. All right.
Theres the old seat and then theres the old ceiling washer about the only other thing we have in our kit. That we can replace is this little retainer here its pushed onto this shaft. And it retains this spring here.
Theres nothing wrong with that so im just gonna leave that in place so fiddling with it all right before we start putting this back together. Im going to give it a bit of a clean. So ill start by just spraying with a carburetor cleaner.
Then i used some compressed air. Ill just go grab my glasses half so i can see in half so neat carburetor clean and wise. Im going to start at the top here youll see theres a couple of very small orifices here.
So im eating some carb cleaner down here down here down here and then we blow. It all out if you dont have an air compressor you can actually by compressed air just in small aerosol cans. And its a great way just to do single carburetor cleans.
Like this probably lasts three or four covers to be honest this here is the hole. Where our tapered idle mixture screw way so im definitely going to get an extra card cleaner in there at the center. Here is the emulsion tube that helps maintain the correct air fuel ratio.
This is affected by how much fuel comes up here. So this is why its really important that the needle and seat close off at the correct height. So well talk a bit later about setting the level for the float as well alright.
Then we add the little air orifice from the top it looks pretty clean. But while we here with these large jets and orifices you actually get sets of carburetor cleaner brushes. So im gonna find a brush that just fits in like this one fits quite nicely its tight but it fits through reasonably well and then well clean it out with the brush as well so in the case of a air orifice like this if its blocked up.
Youll be running too rich and in the case of a fuel jet if its blocked up youll be running too lean. No everythings been cleaned out and start putting it back together. Often with these kits and definitely with this kit you end up with a lot more parts than you need and thats because they cover some a range of our boards.
So well start here by replacing the original fiber washer for the drain plug before we can put the drain plug back in i need to put that main jet back in so. Well grab that drop it in with these jets. They just wind all the way in so you wanted to be snug.
You dont break anything.
But you dont them coming loose either theyre not like idle screws. Where they need to be set to a particular position. They just put all the way all right now.
I can put the bowl drain back in with its new washer around the emulsion true. We had another seal. Which was this one so grab.
A new one of those and then just push it down to the tube next. Im going to install the new needle and seat if you have a look at the old needle. There you can see this little hook is looped around it and then it slots over the arm for the float.
So ill install that bit first so this end. Here is the little hook. It just clips on to the needle.
Like that then once the needles free to hang. We can put it onto the float. Ill get the new seat in before we do that though and theres the little ceiling washer that goes around it and just snug it up one of the things that can throw the float level out really quickly is just simply having it in the wrong way around so in this case.
This cutout you section goes down into the bowl. But if youre doing a different carrboro just pay attention to which way it is when you take it out so. If this section is down.
We need the needle pointing up like that so its upside down. But thats the way its going to be in the boat. Once youve got it all rigged up just drop the needle down into the seat like this and then im going to go fetch the pivot pin that goes through here doesnt look like it matters.
Which way it goes through on this one. So you can push it through from either side. This is the point now will you be setting your float level before you put the float ball back on if you hold the carburetor upside down.
You can then measure the distance between the base of the carburetor here and the top of the float bowl here in the case of these john. Seven rhodes is actually a tool that goes over the top that you measure it again. Its sort of arches up and over and touches here.
But i dont have one. Although the service manual says to put the special tool on what im reading is it needs to be level. And you can see here.
Its dipping down a little bit of the front. So what im going to do is bend this arm here until this is sitting level with the body of the governor. Im going to do this gently a little bit of guitar.
And what i dont wanna be doing is sort of flexing it up going back up you know and keep overshooting and enough fatiguing. It you can see here now. Its sitting much closer to level.
It has overshot maybe slightly. But i actually did read that its better to have this end slightly up so thats where im gonna leave it the other measurement is when you hold it up how far does it drop down and you adjust that by bending this little tab here on the back with the carburetor hanging this way. I read it should be between 28 and 41 millimeters this way and it is so im gonna leave that now im just gonna put the new float ball gasket on and screw the float ball back down for the screws for the card burner bowl.
The manual calls for a little bit of loctite or threadlocker unscrew.
So well do that as always these screws. Im just going to tighten them in the diagonals keep the pressure even keep them snug. What the gaskets do its work.
Im not gonna crank them so hard that i distort anything. But i dont want it leaking with the idle mixture screw. Im just gonna put the spring back on and then wind it all the way in and then wind back out about two two and half turns will chain.
It up properly once the motor is running again so seat it all the way down gently and then for me to enough turns i find it easiest to count half turns. So ill go five half turns back out getting. The correct orientation of the top cover gaskets much easier by putting it on the cover first you can see.
Here. Theres a little pea nor. A dowel here that goes through a hole in the gasket.
Thats good like that same here even more so giving us made in a plastic snug. But dont distort it dont break it last. Thing now is just putting the airblade orifice back in the top cover and were pretty much done the last gasket.
We have left is the one that goes between the carbon itself and the engine block with read. Rails are its really important this seals well because if air can get between the carburetor and the block. You have a vacuum leak.
Which means the engine is going to be running lean. Youve got the correct fuel air mixture coming through the carburetor. Then youve got extra fresh air.
Meaning you got too much air. Not enough fuel this has got a bit of old gasket left on so im going to clean up both the carburetor and the block before we put it back on now both surfaces are clear. Were just going to put the new gasket on dry and then pop the carburetor back on its a little bit fiddly getting these nuts back on due to the shaft of the butterfly valve big in the way.
But if you keep the carburetor forward get them started. Then you can just start to work the carburetor back towards the block. As you do the nuts up.
Then just do them up with a 1 2. Inch. Spinner.
No its not stolen actually use 1 2 inch. We want these reasonably snug to avoid that vacuum leak. We were talking about earlier at this point in proceedings.
Wed be reconnecting the primest are reconnecting the hose from the fuel pump all that kind of thing. Squeezing a primer bulb and looking for leaks confoundedly. Obviously just need to sort that out in this case.
I dont have those on things connected yet because were giving this murder. The overhaul. But you get the idea all right well i hope this video has helped you if youre looking to service.
The carburetor on your johnson evernote outboard. We will push on next and do the fuel pump. But until then take care of it sexy music.
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